Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette! In today's video, we discuss the differencesbetween a glued suit or a fused suit, a full canvas suit, and in between, the half canvassuit.
When you go out and buy a suit today, no matterif it's offline or online, chances are you encounter these terms often used by salesmento lure you in to spend more money.
Now, a lot of salesmen use these terms interchangeablyand we want to help you to get the most value for your money when you buy a suit.
Don't expect the salesman to know what they'retalking about, you should know what you get so you don't get cheated.
So first of all, why do you need an interliningor a canvas in the first place? Basically, fabric is two-dimensional.
It's woven, it's flat.
A suit is three-dimensional so the interlininghelps to keep the garment in it's three-dimensional shape so it's flattering to your body.
Now for the interlining, you basically havethree options.
It starts with glued or fused, half canvas, and full canvas.
With full canvas being the best and fusedbeing the cheapest and not so good option.
Let's start with the cheapest option and workour way up.
Fused or glued interlinings are the numberone thing in the sewing industry today simply because they're inexpensive and you can produceit in a mass scale very easily and cost effectively.
So what are the advantages apart from it beingcheap? Well, it does the job, it gives the garmenta three-dimensional shape.
The problems however are manifold.
First of all, because it is glued, there'snot much flexibility in the garment and you can feel it because it feels less comfortableand it does not stretch when you move.
Usually, you do get a chest piece that helpsto form that three-dimensional shape that looks very masculine, however, in a garmentof that category, you usually get something more inexpensive such as a cheap cotton orlow-quality wool blend.
My big pet peeve with fused or glued garmentsis that they are much more insulating and less breathable which makes me overheat morequickly and sweat.
Generally, whenever I touch a fused garment, it feels somewhat limp and depending on what chest piece it has, it could be stiffer orsofter.
Overall, it's just a very unexciting feel.
With a fused interlining, you also don't endup with a nice lapel roll.
Usually, they're quite flat which looks unexciting.
Usually, it's a hallmark of a cheap gluedsuit.
Because of the interlining, sometimes it alwayskind of stands in an awkward manner and there's really nothing you can do about it, it justlooks off to a trained eye.
Moreover, these fused jackets are not madeto last because eventually, they will come loose and at that point, it'll form ugly blisterson your lapel and on the outside, that's when you have to throw the garment away.
So, when you buy a fused suit, you're partof the throwaway economy because the resources that are used have to be thrown away and it'salso bad for your wallet because even though the initial investment is low, you have tobuy it over and over again.
if we look at a graph, it starts out withbeing quite good but today, you wear it, it just deteriorates over time and then at onepoint in time when you get the blisters, you can throw it away and it's worthless.
Next up, let's talk about the full canvasconstruction which is the traditional way a tailor made a suit.
First of all, the only disadvantage of thismethod is tha it's quite time-consuming and therefore expensive, however, it has manyadvantages.
First of all, the interlining is sewn to thefabric and as such, it is flexible.
So when you move, it moves with you, it'scomfortable, there are no pressure points, over time, the garment actually gets better.
On top of that, you can really decide whatkind of stiffness you go for.
For example, the jacket I'm wearing here rightnow is extremely soft, it feels more like a sweater and it has some structure when Istand still but if you see the wrinkles here, they just stay like that.
On a traditional suit, tailors used horsehair because it was very stiff and springy and it could keep the shape even though youwrinkle it.
For example, when I touch this, it springsright back in shape as if nothing ever happened.
So this is actually a vintage rowing blazermade in England in the 60's.
It's much stiffer and feels like it but ithas this crisp look that you sometimes know from military garments or evening wears suchas tuxedos or tailcoats.
However, if I really want to look my best, I go for something crisp and springy because it simply has the most beautiful lines.
Also if you go with a stiffer interlining, it smoothens over any kind of bumps or imperfections in your body so it would be much more easierto fit.
It takes about an hour per lapel to sew thecanvas to the fabric so it stays in shape and looks good.
Fortunately, it doesn't wear out and if youlook at it on a graph, the handmade jacket gets better as you wear it and you will neverhave issues with blisters and you wear the fabric out before there's any issue with thecanvass/ To achieve the lapel roll, you have to take the interlining, the canvas, and thefabric, angle it and then sew it, that way it stays in shape and will always go backto that angle.
Let's assume this is my fabric and this ismy interlining, if I sew them together like this and I move them afterwards, they willalways go back in this position, If I start sewing them together like this and I movethem back to the middle, they will always bring back and that's the idea of a lapeland that's when you get this nice lapel roll that stays in shape.
The lapel roll is a hallmark of a handmadejacket or suit.
To cut costs, the German company Strobel cameup with a machine that enabled to sew the lapels while they're angled but first, theyhad to be operated by hand but it saved a lot of time.
Today they have the KA-ED machine which sewsit fully automatically and you can do a lapel in one minute.
The great thing is, it comes with a left sideand a right side because the lapels or angled in a different direction.
A good operator can work on two machines atthe same time which means you actually get four lapels in one minute.
Throughout an 8-hour day, someone could makeanywhere from 600-1000 suit lapels whereas by hand, you can end up just making about6-10.
Obviously, that's a lot more efficient andif you produce quality suits in a mass scale, it really makes sense.
However, it also has its price, the machineof that caliber, costs $100, 000.
It's really fun to look at this machine andsee the sensors, it's basically like a typewriter and just recognizes when it's done so it'svery easy for the operator.
Now, some people say the quality is not asgood as if it is made by hand.
Actually, we tested it, the jacket I'm wearinghere right now has one lapel padded by hand and the other one padded by a machine andthere's really no discernible difference.
They both roll, they're both quality and themachine-made product can be as good as the hand-made product in that instance.
Now even if you work with a machine, you havedifferent parts such as the top part of the jacket and the bottom part.
If you do a full canvas construction, it takessome time.
For that reason, the half canvas constructionwas invented.
it basically takes the best of both worldsin a sense that it takes a good chest piece that is sewn and lasts for a while with thecheap part of the glue to keep the cost down.
It's called hal canvas but in fact, it's morelike a 2/3 canvas with 1/3 of a glued interlining.
The only reason to ever go with half-canvasversus full canvas is to save on cost.
So if you don't want to compromise in termsof quality, you should always opt for the full canvas.
However, if you can't afford full canvas, a half canvas garment is much superior to a glued interlining because it's more breathable, more comfortable, you don't overheat, and it lasts longer.
Personally, I'd always rather save for a fullcanvas construction but that's just my personal opinion and each to his own.
At the end of the day, it's important to keepin mind that everything has its purpose but if you can afford it, opt for the full canvas.
If not, go for the half canvas and personally, I'd suggest to always stay clear of the glued canvas unless there's really no other wayfor you than to go with a glued interlining.
If you want to learn more about suits, pleasecheck out our $100 vs $1000 or our $500 vs $5000 suit video.
and you can also learn more about the terminologiesbehing RTW, off-the rack, MTM, and bespoke in this video, here.
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