Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette andpart four to our series about ironing.
Today we discuss how to iron a suit jacketor press a sport coat.
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Many people are hesitant to press a jacketand even a tailor can sometimes takes 30 to 45 minutes to completely and accurately pressa jacket.
Unfortunately the procurement tailorsuse is very expensive but I'll still show you a way on how you can press a jacket athome with a very minimal investment in equipment.
First of all the easiest way to remove wrinklesfrom a jacket especially that is made out of wool is with the steam.
The least expensive way is to hang your jacketon a hanger with wide shoulder pads because it keeps the shapeof the shoulder and then simply hang it in your bathroom, turn on the hot water, letit sit in there so you create a lot of steam.
Let the jacket hang there overnight in themorning at least the most extreme wrinkles should have come out.
An even better and faster alternative to thebathroom is to invest in a steamer.
Usually about 100 bucks will get you a longway then you will end up something that produce a lot of steam and you could just steam yourjacket when it hangs on a hanger.
It has the advantage that you can de-wrinklespecific areas such as the sleeve head, the sleeve or the back and honestly it works reallyreally well.
I had a suit shipped to me in very littlepackages and they came out looking really really bad but if it's a quality cloth itwill release wrinkles when it's steamed as long as it is made of wool.
If you have a jacket like with linen or cottonyou'll have to iron out and press it.
They're a little more difficult to iron butit's not impossible.
If you have a linen jacket you can skip thecloth because it can bear a lot of heat you just crank up the temperature all the wayand you go to the maximum steam setting.
The more steam the better! If you just have a regular ironing board andan iron you're quite limited in what you can do when it comes to pressing.
The easiest areas are flat areas such as thefront quarters maybe the pockets and the pocket flaps the center back seam and if you reallywant to you can also try yourselves on the sleeves.
Just like with pants, drying two layers offabric on top of each other which is not ideal but doable.
If you want to iron your jackets at home Istrongly suggest to invest about $35 into a sleeve board and into a tailor's ham.
Thosetwo things will make it much easier to iron your jacket and you can actually iron anypart of the jacket to achieve a really wonderful good proper result.
If money is of no concern to you definitelyinvest in that vacuum table because it sucks away all the steam and it will give you betterresult without any waves and it's just also quicker to iron.
First, I suggest you start with the body andyou can lay it over the tip of the ironing board similarly to a shirt.
Carefully work on the front quarters.
To prevent your jacket from getting shinyit pays to have a pressing cloth which could be made of linen maybe an old t-shirt thatyou cut and generally want something that has no lint and no fuzz.
Simply put between the iron and the garmentand pull at the edges so you can see what's going on while you iron.
The next step up from this is to get a Teflonsole because it will prevent the fabric from getting shiny but you can see everything that'sgoing on.
Once you're done with the front quarters it'stime to go to the lapels.
Personally I really much prefer to iron thelapels on a tailor's ham and a sleeve board because you get that natural rounding thatthe lapel has on your body.
A quality handmade jacket is always identifiableby their lapel roll.
Cheap suits or some that were pressed cheaplyhave very flat pressed lapel area and you should avoid that at all cost because it makesit look cheap and you don't want that.
To increase the lapel roll you can even ironthe lapel in the beginning part from the back which really helps to achieve this beautifulbespoke style roll.
Don't iron over the lapel line that's foldedbecause otherwise it's stiff and flat.
Once you're done with that you could ironthe back area of the jacket.
That's easily done even on a regular ironingboard with a regular iron.
Just pay attention to the seams which is thecenter seam and try to not press hard on them but slightly on the side that way you won'tsee the pattern of the seams on the outside of the fabric.
That's especially important with thinner moreflimsy fabrics.
The same is true when ironing for examplethe corners of your back vents.
If you want a crisp result you can use a clapperto get that nice crease.
Next up it's time to iron sleeves and that'swhen a sleeve board comes in really really handy.
Better than ironing two layers of fabric atthe same time I prefer to have one layer of fabric but a sleeve is usually never juststraight.
Don't worry if there is a slight curve andyou want to maintain that curve by ironing in that same fashion.
Mostly for this I know are straight and soit's a little challenge but you can do it by follow the patterns on the jacket sleeve.
If there's no pattern simply take that motionin a slight banana curve.
When you do that try to keep the curve ofthe sleeve and don't press the edges otherwise you geta military-style look that looks very un-advantageous on a regular jacket in my opinion.
Similarly to a shirt sleeve you simply rotatethe sleeve and that way you ensure to have a nice even result without any wrinkles andwithout any military crease on your sleeve.
Stay clear of the sleeve head which is betterironed using a tailor's ham.
You can really prop it in there, try to adjustit, pull things flat ideally over the sleeve board because that way it drapes more easilynothing is in your way and you can just focus on ironing.
It's a lot easier that way.
Use steam gentle motions and don't press toohard on it so you remove all the wrinkles.
When you're done with that slightly adjustthe tailor's ham so you can iron the front part of the chest as well as the back.
Again think about jackets when it's worn.
From the top here you want to go and iron inlines down and keep that same shape, same in the back.
With that center seam and so you go in theshape it drapes over the body.
Gently use steam.
Now you can also iron the back area underneaththe collar and also the collar itself.
It's very difficult or next to impossibleto iron a collar on a flat ironing board.
You need the sleeve board and a tailors hamso it can roll and drape nicely and just iron little parts of it.
If you have patch pockets you can use thesleeve board as well to iron them and then maybe the clapper on top to get a straightedge.
At this point you're basically done with yourjacket.
Ideally you put it in a hanger or even bettera mannequin so you can really look it over and see any areas that you might have missedor it just got wrinkles while you were ironing other parts.
Again take a look at the lapels.
Make sure the roll is there.
There is no puckering or any waviness.
Look at the shoulders, look at the sleevesagain because sometimes you see creases on the inside of the elbow or usually jacketscrease above the bum around the waist level in the back.
Last but not the least you may not be happywith the wrinkles in the lining.
Now ideally use your iron and hover over itwith a steam and pull it at the same time that will likely release most of the wrinkles.
If it doesn't you can gently press it or usea steamer that produces even more steam than the regular iron and you should be good togo.
Just be careful not to press too hard becauseotherwise you may end up with wrinkles on the outside of the jacket which is a lot worsethan in the lining.
Alright now you know how to iron a jacketat home! If you haven't already done so please checkout part 1, 2 & 3 of this ironing series.
We talked about the equipment, how to irondress shirts and how to iron dress pants.
In today's video I am wearing a red, whiteand blue check shirt with barrel cuffs because it's easier than French cuffs when you iron.
I also skipped the jacket because I wanteda full range of movement so I'm not hindered when I iron.
So I just opted for a blue Harris tweed vest.
I combined it with a Bordeaux red silk knittie from Fort Belvedere and a pair of off-white wool flannel winter pants.
White or off white winter flannels are not somethingyou typically see these days but they were quite popular in the 30s.
My shoes are full brogue derby wingtips ina nice chestnut brown and I combine them with a pair of light pink and gray socks that providejust enough contrast between the shoes and the pants.
They're from Fort Belvedere and you can findout all of the accessories in our shop here.